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Spain 2023 Part 3: Jill in Seville
Well, my trip to Seville didn’t go exactly as planned. Unfortunately, I missed my original train. Note: don’t just arrive on time to trains here in Spain, arrive extra early -- at least a half-hour. Even though the train hadn’t left yet, they wouldn’t let me get on. There’s a lot to love about Spain, but their strictness and unwillingness to help in a situation like this felt kind of crappy. I have to say, this was my first experience missing a ride while backpacking, and yeah, it’s a huge bummer.
When I finally made it to Seville, it was sunny and hot. My hostel was just a 20-minute walk away, and like the others, these accommodations were within walking distance of all the important places to see in the city. While unpacking my clothes, I met a traveler from London, Gemma, who was super nice. Gemma was here visiting her dad, who is Spanish. I have to say, I’ve met more Brits here than I have Spanish people, ironically.
Anyhow, my first tourist was the Plaza de España. While it’s a gorgeous testament to the architecture of Andalusia, you might also recognize it from Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones when Anakin and Padme are preparing to leave for Naboo together. It really is stunning, though, and a must-see place when you’re here. The only downside to this area, as well as other touristy parts of this city, is the horse carriage rides. I hate that we still have to deal with animals being used as entertainment like this. And in the heat no less!
While at the Plaza, I even got to catch an impromptu flamenco performance. That was super cool, just hard to actually see at first with all the people crowded around.
As mentioned, it’s very sunny here in Seville. I did not pack a hat, and I sure wish I had. You’ll want one. That, and lots of sunscreen.
After the Plaza, I snuck at peak at the former Jewish quarter, Barrio de Santa Cruz, which has some of the coolest streets here in Seville and is a popular area for tourists to shop, grab drinks, and eat food.
Walking around the city, I was amazed at the architecture. It’s like every city I continue to go to on this trip gets more thrilling to look at.
Overwhelmingly tired from a 6:30 am train ride I hadn't woken up for, I turned in for an early night, grateful once again to no longer be in a party hostel with 20-year-olds.
Because I had missed my original train to Seville, I also missed my reservation to the Royal Alcazar (palace) that’s here. I took my original ticket, though, and went over there at 9:30 am, hoping they might be generous and still let me in, considering I had already paid. Nope. Not a chance. “You must get a new ticket.” Well, rather than miss out on seeing one of the city’s main attractions, I opted to get a new ticket.
One thing to note about Seville is that it is busy, arguably more so than Granada. Barcelona is busy too, but you also kind of expect it there because of its size. The line to buy tickets is long, and they sell out fast. Ideally, I recommend booking your ticket online ahead of time. If you have to buy the same day, go as early as possible. They were already selling out time slots before 10:00 am. Also, the lines to buy tickets and to get in once you have one are in two separate areas. They’re not far from each other, but it’s sort of confusing if you’re new to it. This is also the same deal with the Seville Cathedral.
Even though it sucked having to spend the extra money, it was neat to see the Alcazar. The gardens there are huge but absolutely gorgeous. I even got to see several ducklings by one of the fountains in the gardens. That may have been my favorite part…
After the Alcazar, I ventured over to the Seville Cathedral and its accompanying Giralda Tower, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Originally a mosque built in 1198, it was eventually turned into a cathedral in 1401. I originally went up in the Giralda Tower. It’s a climb but not too bad since it’s ramp walkways instead of stairs. However, it’s not a huge space, and there are lots of people going up and down, so if you’re claustrophobic, it might not be a fun time. Once you get to the top, you essentially have to wait for other tourists to move from a window space so you can look out at the views. Did I mention it’s busy in Seville? Seriously, if you’re ever worried about population decline, just visit a tourist destination. I also felt like other tourists here were very pushy, so that’s kind of frustrating too.
After the Giralda Tower, I went back down into the cathedral portion. It’s so big! Almost overwhelming. And it is also where Christopher Colombus is buried. Not to be confused with the great director of classics like Home Alone and Home Alone 2: Lost in New York.
I like Seville, but it can feel overwhelming being around so many people, and I would imagine it’d be even busier in summer. My recommendation is try and go to these places during slower seasons. Also, something to note is that while it's warmer in southern Spain, it's still cold in the morning and at night in these places, so pack layers if you travel here in April.
Even though I had a rough start in Seville, it ended better than expected. My last Seville event was an authentic flamenco show at a venue called La Case del Flamenco. The show I originally booked was for 8:30 pm, but considering I had a 6:50 am train the next morning, I was hoping I might be able to get into an earlier show. They were kind enough to let me see the 7:00 pm show instead, so at least there’s one place in Spain that will accommodate folks. The theater space was intimate and beautiful. The show included one guitar player, two singers (one male, one female), and then two dancers (also one male and one female). I had some knowledge of what to expect, but this show surpassed my expectations. It was incredibly passionate and exciting! Plus, it was 1-hour long, which was an ideal amount of time. This was honestly one of my favorite parts of my time in Seville, and it’s something you shouldn’t miss if you visit this city.
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About the author
Jill Zwarensteyn is a writer and comedian who has been featured on Amazon, truTV, The New York Times, Matador Network, BUST Magazine, Sleep Advisor, Tiplr, ARTRPRNR Magazine, YourTango, Thought Catalog, GoMad Nomad, Mashable, The Daily Mail UK, the Cannes Film Festival, LaughFest, Women's Lifestyle Magazine, and the Funny Women Festival LA. For more info visit: http://www.jillzwarensteyn.weebly.com